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Colored Diamonds
When the news came out that Ben Affleck gave Jennifer Lopez a pink diamond solitaire engagement ring, the viewing figures of pink diamonds went sky high. The sale of that radiant-cut modified princess and emerald cut stone was responsible for a worldwide surge of inquiries and interest in pink diamonds. The Affleck-Lopez diamond weighed approximately 2.5 carats, and cost $1.5 million. Jennifer Lopez later branded her own J-Lo jewelry line featuring simulated pink faux diamonds. The difficulty with any perfect jewelry investment is finding the perfect stone. But color is back in style, and heirloom collector gemstones are very good investments and very fascinating to look at, so it's just a matter of time before another celebrity pops the question with the famed blue, yellow, pink, purple, or truly rare green diamond. Los Angeles Laker Kobe Bryant's gift of a more than $4 million dollar seven carat purple diamond to his wife Vanessa has likewise helped to skyrocket additional interest in rare colored diamonds. Diamonds are now traded on the Dow. Collector-quality diamonds are wonderful items of great intrinsic and economic value, and they are quite the joy to own and enjoy.

Jewelry as an investment: One of the true diamond divas of the 20th Century would have to be screen actress Elizabeth Taylor. Her jewelry collection was vast, and it is reported her jewelry lockbox contained over 200 carats of top quality diamonds. One stone, the colorless and internally flawless almost 70 carat Taylor-Burton diamond, given to Elizabeth Taylor in the 60s by Actor Richard Burton, was a pear-shaped 69.42 carat diamond. The stone has quite a history in that it was originally sold at auction in 1969 with the understanding that it could be named by the buyer. Cartier of New York successfully bid for it and immediately christened it Cartier. The next day Richard Burton bought the stone for Elizabeth Taylor for an undisclosed sum, renaming it the Taylor-Burton. It made its debut at a charity ball in Monaco in mid-November, 1969 where Miss Taylor wore it as a pendant. In 1978, Elizabeth Taylor announced that she was putting it up for sale and planned to, after visiting the country of Africa, use part of the proceeds to build a hospital in Botswana. Just to inspect the diamond, prospective buyers had to pay $2,500 to cover the cost of showing it. In June 1979 it was sold for nearly $3 million dollars, and was last reported to be in Saudi Arabia.



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Platinum. A Diamond's Best Friend.
Platinum, like gold, has a long and distinguished history. Its use began in antiquity and it has undergone a resurgence in popularity over the last 200 years. Platinum was held in high esteem during early Egyptian times. Native people in South and Central America worked it as early as 100 B.C. Spanish conquistadors discovered platinum artifacts among the gold they were seeking when they came to the new world. They named the curious metal "platina," or "little silver." They also considered it worthless, and discarded it. Platinum didn't reach Europe until the 18th century, but then it caught on in a big way. King Louis XVI elevated it by terming it "the metal of kings."

For centuries, the only large amounts of platinum outside of South America were found in Russian mines. Russia used platinum coins in the 19th century. In Spain, some gold coins were faked by gold-plating platinum coins. Today, platinum is far more valuable than gold. Platinum's initial uses were probably limited by its hardness and its very high melting point. The early forging and casting techniques made it quite a difficult metal to work with. During the latter part of the 19th century, and the first half of the 20th, platinum was the premier metal for all-important jewelry. Platinum dominated the world of jewelry design during the Edwardian era, and the Art Deco period well into the 1930s. It all came to an abrupt end in World War II, when platinum was declared a strategic metal and its use banned for all non-military purposes. Platinum has many industrial applications, which made it invaluable to the military during the war. Platinum is vital to the automotive industry as well as to electrical engineering, electronics and petrochemicals. The medical and dental fields also use it to a great degree. Every car in the United States has platinum in its catalytic converter, which reduces emissions. Only about one-third of the platinum mined today is used in jewelry, where it consistently commands higher prices than the purest gold. Because of its many uses, almost all platinum mined and refined is immediately committed to use. An interesting note: There are no stockpiles or "reserves" of platinum in any government or banking storage. The appeal of platinum is in its appearance. Its white luster is unique. It is also the strongest precious metal used in jewelry, and is almost twice as heavy as 14-karat gold. This weight is one of platinum's strongest selling points, because it gives "heft" to fine jewelry, which people naturally equate with value. In recent years platinum has rapidly grown in popularity. It's become the new choice for many diamond engagement rings because its luster brings out the brilliance of diamonds far better than gold. Many fashion consultants agree that platinum (and white gold) is more compatible with fairer skin tones. The Japanese seem to be listening -- almost 85% of platinum jewelry produced every year is purchased by Japanese consumers! Despite its growing popularity, platinum remains one of the world's rare metals. The annual worldwide production of platinum amounts to some 160 tons, compared to about 1,500 tons of gold.

It can be found in just a handful of regions of the world. The mining and refining processes are both arduous and time-consuming. For example, in order to extract a single ounce of platinum, about 10 tons of ore need to be mined. After that, the refining process takes a full five months. Platinum in jewelry is actually an alloyed group of six heavy metals, including platinum, palladium, rhodium, ruthenium, iridium and osmium. These other metals are so similar to platinum in weight and chemistry that most were not even distinguished from each other until early in the nineteenth century. Today, it is often alloyed with copper and titanium. It's the only precious metal used in fine jewelry that is 90% to 95% pure, largely hypoallergenic, and tarnish-resistant. Look for platinum jewelry marked 900Pt, 950 Plat, or Plat. One final word about precious metals: Like gold, platinum is durable, sturdy and dependable, making it an ideal setting for your precious diamond jewelry. However, to get a lifetime of enjoyment from your jewelry, be sure to keep it clean and safe. Do not wear platinum jewelry during rough work or when handling harsh chemicals. Store it in a fabric-lined box away from other pieces so it does not get scratched. Finally, check any diamond settings periodically for possible damage to prongs or bezels. If you see a loose prong, or if the setting looks out of line, immediately bring it to a professional for repair.




Inside the Auction: The Chloe Diamond


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Exploring Gemstone Settings
The ever-popular prong setting (three to six little metal "claws" grip the stone tightly) allows light to shine through the diamond, showing off its brilliance. But prong-set rings are infamous for snagging sweaters, and their fragility makes them a bit high-maintenance. Look for prongs thick enough to secure the stone without overpowering it; platinum is your safest bet for larger diamonds. Get prongs checked, and tightened if necessary, at least once a year.

The lovely Tulipset features four sets of two prongs are joined to form corner "pockets" to secure the stone) can hold a deeper diamond. It, too, lets light shine through and, like a prong setting, is fairly easy to repair and resize. Though pretty, a tulip-shaped setting is not one of the stronger ones and, being fairly new, may be difficult to find.

The eye-catching tension setting employs inward pressure from both sides of the ring (12,000 pounds per square inch!) to hold the diamond. The gem seems to float in mid-air. Light plays through it nicely, but each ring is customized to a stone and sized to your finger, so resizing is tricky. For superior quality, you must purchse this setting from a reputable jeweler.

A smaller stone may look larger in a bezel setting (where a band of metal fully or partially surrounds the perimeter of a center stone). It's also a good option for concealing or preventing nicks around the edge of the stone. Drawback: A bezel setting of yellow gold may be reflected in the stone, causing whiter diamonds to appear less so.

Another option for smaller stones is a cluster setting, where several small diamonds are grouped together to look like one large stone. Other options for multiple stones include bar settings, where stones are held firm by thin vertical bars around the stone, and channel settings, where a horizontal channel holds the stones in place with no metal separating them.












4 carat pave diamond semi-mounting, perfect for a 5-8 carat round center stone Finally, it's hard to go wrong with a semi-mounting (a shank with accent stones and a space for the center stone of your choosing). To control costs, choose a less expensive semi-mounting and splurge on the rock of your dreams. Or, find one with an antique look and remount a family heirloom gemstone.

You Get What You Pay For: The value of gold is measured in karats (the proportion of pure gold in a piece). Twenty-four karat is 100% gold, but too soft for most jewelry, so other alloys are added for strength, defraying the cost. The higher the karat weight, the richer the color, but the weaker the strength. In fine jewelry, 14K and 18K are most common.

If you prefer white metals, choose from white gold or platinum. For the budget-conscious, white gold is your metal. Platinum is rarer and more expensive. It's also noticeably heavier, hypoallergenic and will never tarnish

A good setting is a diamond's best friend. How a diamond is set — that is, mounted to the ring itself — determines how the gem looks on your finger: hip, classic, dazzling, demure, and how safely it will be protected. Your day-to-day doings can greatly impact the long-term condition of your diamond ring. Think about how you use your hands (are they often digging into a purse, banging into things, exposure to cleaning solutions, knuckle-deep in gardening soil ???), consider the pros and cons of each certain settings. Protect your gemstone by picking a setting or mounting that suits your daily lifestyle. Whether you choose the stone or the setting first, make sure the size of the gem and the formality and functionality of the setting won't put it — or you — at risk. It's no fun to have a gorgeous ring you can't wear regularly because it's too fragile or formal. And there are those special times when you want to wear a ring with a lovely gemstone set high and brilliant, very showy and sparkling. Pay attention to your jewelry, and periodically bring your most expensive gems to a fine jeweler for a check-up to make sure all stones are securely mouted. Shake the piece, if you hear any rattling a stone is loose and needs securing. Most metals are pretty sturdy. Silver and softer (higher karat) golds can be harmed when they come in contact with bleach and other chemicals. When in doubt, remove your jewelry before using these chemicals.

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